I didn't mind this chapter. Anything that involves smoking and contemplating is far more engaging than the endless fields of the last chapter.
What I liked about this chapter was that it felt like actual characters were beginning to engage with each other. Sometimes it's hard to do that when they're just running on horses together. The hobbits describe the battle of isengard, which was done well. Tolkien shows the ruin, then describes how it happens. The details don't give a blow by blow account, but hit a few highlights. Especially fun is the cameo by Wormtongue in this chapter, and how Treebeard was aware of Wormtongue's game because of Gandalf. (Remember, Wormtongue is the most interesting character so far in the series!)
I agree with Jacob that this chapter should have been combined with the last.
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